A FULL ENGLISH
All London’s breakfast greats in one place? Yes please, says Joanna Taylor
What defines a breakfast of champions? Are your eggs scrambled instead of fried, tomatoes instead of baked beans, or bacon grilled instead of sizzling in oil? Because of the subjective nature of such a life-threatening question, our answer would usually be a fairly harmless “Who knows?” to be. But now apparently someone.
Sausage Press is a brand new, brilliantly designed London food guide concept by journalist Ben Smith and food and drink development teacher Jules Pearson, and its first pamphlet features the capital’s best fry-ups. Priceless? And it is. But it’s the brand’s pop-up at The Hoxton Southwark that really makes our stomachs rumble.
After narrowing the city’s various options down to the definitive must-eat-at spots, the couple picked the best of every breakfast from some of the institutions listed and stacked them all on one plate for two days’. Greatest Hits’. ‘ ‘fries. So in case you’re wondering, that’s Dishoom’s ever-spicy masala beans, Beppe’s delicious guilt-free fried slab, the silky-smooth bacon from Riding House Cafés, new kid on the block Norman’s firm sausages, Pelliccli’s eggs, and the expertly crafted hash browns from Hash E8. And if that doesn’t whet your appetite, every diner gets a free guidebook with their breakfast and has the chance to buy stylish prints of fry-ups at other beloved restaurants including Mary’s Cafe and, of course, The Wolseley. Now the only question is: red sauce or brown?
9 a.m.-2 p.m., July 9-10 (sausagepers.nl†
The brekkie at Norman’s
† Sausage PressTHREE OF THE BEST: TRIFLES
After Queenie’s winning platinum anniversary pudding, this old school dessert is firmly back on the menu and these are its best performances
Holborn Dining rooms, WC
Is there anything this West End place doesn’t do well? No. And this spicy twist on the classic, featuring Yorkshire rhubarb and invigorating ginger, is proof.
The Pelican, W11
For a very traditional take, enjoy this one with strawberry jelly, sherry-soaked sponge, Marsala, vanilla custard, whipped cream and hundreds and thousands.
Booking Office 1869, NW1
The only thing more fun than feasting on layers of delicious retro strawberry jelly and poached rhubarb is the highly glamorous, Gothic Revival setting of this restaurant.
The trifle at booking office 1869
† John CareyREMEMBER OF ROSE
Douglas Blyde sips the best British blush
With its huge popularity, it should come as no surprise that fears of a global drought of still rosé wine often make headlines. Luckily we make decent pinks here in England. Sarah Massey of Axminster’s Lyme Bay Winery’s affordable Aldi offering is part of the jovially named Bowler & Brolly range, and the berry-scented Specially Selected rosé (£9.99) is all at once delicate, precise and drinkable.
For a deeper, richer rose, try Calafuria from Puglia. A project by the legendary Antinori winery, the watermelon-scented wine is harvested from native Negroamaro vines nestled between forest and sea (£19.99/£40.99, bottle/magnum; selfridges.com). Finally, the rarest, reddest and most competitively priced rosé.
I recommend Rose-Marie from Bordeaux’s Château le Puy 2018 (£48; dynamicvines.com). The blood-colored masterpiece focuses on 50-year-old Merlot vines and is crafted to lunar rhythms. At the age of four, it proves that truly great roses have the power to age.
Calafuria rosé
† CalafuriaDATES FOR YOUR AGENDA
Popups and events to have on your radar
July 1st: Matt Beardmore of Legare teams up with George Ryle of the Garden Café for an Italian four-course feast using the finest British ingredients from the Garden Museum’s spectacular foliage. resy.com
July 4: The ever-stylish Parisian bar Le Syndicat, specializing in traditional French spirits, comes to beautiful Swift Shoreditch for a one-night collaboration to celebrate the talented mixologists of each place. barshift.com
July 5: Brooklyn’s much-hyped natural wine bar and restaurant The Four Horsemen, co-owned by James Murphy of LCD Soundsystem, comes over from the United States and pops up in Rondo Le Cave. sevenrooms.com
6th of July: Discover the delicious wine South America has to offer with an evening of tastings and conversations at Paladar Latin American restaurant with legendary wine expert Amanda Barnes. Ticket £60 designmynight.com
July 7: Rush to Where The Pancakes Are for Pancakes From Around The World, where guest chefs Anna Haugh, Amy Poon, Lee Johnson and Sinead Campbell take over the menu. Ticket £25 wherethepancakesare.com
Until July 10: It’s Pimm’s hour, folks! Head to the drinks brand’s terrace in Covent Garden’s eastern piazza for live Wimbledon al-fresco screenings and a summer cup or two. Covent Garden Market, WC2
Until August 31: Head to Scott’s fishing haven in Mayfair for a sip on the sunny new De Gournay-designed Midsummer on Mount Street terrace in collaboration with Krug Champagne. 20 Mount Street, W1 scotts-restaurant.com