Nicole Kidman and Kim Kardashian may have made headlines on the runway of Balenciaga’s latest couture collection, but they were far from the only stars to show up at high-wattage fashion and jewelry events in Paris last week.
While haute couture presentations make the lion’s share of headlines, in part because of their front row seats packed with Hollywood stars, high-jewelry presentations also attracted industry A-lists, many with new or long-standing relationships with their respective brands. . House ambassador Marion Cotillardpresence at the Chanel dinner, hosted at the Grand Palais Éphémère to celebrate the debut of the house’s 1932 jewelry collection, is an ideal example, while Henry GoldingLaura Harrier and Kate Beckinsale were among those in attendance at the opening of the David Yurman flagship on Rue Saint-Honoré (Golding recently debuted as the face of the jeweler’s men’s campaign).
Parties and dinners dotted with bold names imbue the week with plenty of star power, putting a spotlight on unique designs collectively known as haute joaillerie, known for the meticulous handicrafts that go into them and the use of beautiful stones. Here’s a look at notable pieces from the 16 brands that debuted jewelry collections in Paris last week.
Anything not reserved by retail customers for the next few days can easily find its way onto an upcoming red carpet. All pieces shown here are price on request.
Chanel
The dinner attended by Cotillard took place during the debut of the iconic French house’s 1932 collection of jewels, celebrating the 90e anniversary of Coco Chanel who debuted her “Bijoux de Diamants” jewelry collection in November of that year. More than 70 new jewelry designs emphasize the sun, moon and comet, elements Chanel often used in her work. This Comète Volute brooch is made of 18K white gold and diamonds can be worn in multiple ways: as the oversized brooch seen here or the star as its own brooch, while the tail can be detached and worn as a bracelet. chanel.com
Chanel
David Yurman
Using beetles in jewelry is nothing new, but design director Evan Yurman takes the idea to the next level with this pair of earrings in the latest David Yurman jewelry collection. Crafted from aluminum with 18K white gold, these Dianthus earrings are embellished with a pair of Belionota lush beetles – also aptly known as jewel beetles for their vibrant colors – and surrounded by cognac diamonds. davidyurman.com
David Yurman
Boucheron
Claire Choisne, Boucheron’s creative director, also looked to nature to influence her just-released jewelry collection. This “Papillon Diamant”, or Diamond Butterfly, single earring is made using real wings, a process that Choisne says took about eight years to perfect. The butterfly wings were treated to last before being scanned to create the golden structure that holds them; a beautiful pear-shaped diamond surrounded by white diamonds balances the structure and allows it to rest easily on the ear. boucheron.com
Boucheron
Cartier’s Beautés du Monde jewelry collection showcases dazzling stones amid an overall theme that, as the name implies, emphasizes “the beauty of the world”. This Panthère Heroique necklace features one of Cartier’s signature design elements – crafted in white gold, diamonds and onyx – wrapped around a 28.34-carat fancy-shaped emerald; the emerald beaded tassel, meanwhile, can be removed to wear the necklace on its own, or it can be attached to the clasp so it falls down the back. cartier.com
Cartier
The jeweler’s 75-piece “Chopard Loves Cinema” Red Carpet collection that debuted in May at the 75e anniversary of the Cannes Film Festival includes this vibrant pair of earrings, made of titanium and embellished with 11.01 carats round-cut sapphires, 11.31 carats round-cut amethysts, 4.82 carats square yellow diamonds and 6.23 carats brilliant-cut white diamonds. chopard.com
Chopard
Brooches were more common than previous high jewelry presentations, and there’s a simple explanation: With men embracing more and more jewelry on red carpets, jewelers seem happy to offer options ideal for decorating the lapel of a tuxedo. This ribbon-inspired Double Ruban Mysterieux Clip is part of Van Cleef & Arpel’s 25-piece collection that lives up to its signature mystery-set technique: around a 3.08-carat emerald-cut diamond, buff-topped rubies, pink sapphires, and diamonds are set in white and rose gold. vanclefarpels.com
Van Cleef & Arpels
Tasaki studio
Prabal Gurung brought Michelle Yeoh to May’s Met Gala as his guest, and the… Everything Everywhere All at once actress looked stunning indeed in the designer’s dress and in a statement necklace he designed for Tasaki Atelier. That is the name of the high-jewelry collection of the Japanese pearl house Tasaki, which signed Gurung as global creative director in 2017. Among the “Radiant Sky” collection pieces that Gurung debuted at the Ritz Paris, this necklace combines substantial turquoise stones with aquamarines, Paraiba tourmalines, blue zircons, diamonds, and Akoya and South Sea pearls, all set in 18-karat white gold, to create a to create a lush, tonal effect. tasaki-global.com
Tasaki Atelier
Buccellatia
The Milan-based jeweler took a unique approach with its latest presentation of high jewelry, preferring to delve into its vaults and offer signature pieces from its archives as a statement of sustainability. Also known as the Vintage Couture Collection, the jewels include this Laguna cocktail ring, handcrafted in the 1960s and featuring a cushion-cut peridot totaling 22 carats, surrounded by Buccellati’s iconic engraving in 18-carat white and yellow gold, and finished with 36 brilliant cut diamonds totaling 0.70 carats. buccellati.com
Buccellatia
pomellato
If you need the hallmark of a high jewelery design, remember that Sabina Belli, CEO of Pomellato, wore this piece during the presentation of the Italian label’s jewelery in the boutique Rue Saint-Honoré. Creative director Vincenzo Castaldo said his “A Walk in Nature” collection was inspired by the play of light and shadow in everything from the early morning hours to a stormy sky. Crafted in 18K yellow gold, this velvet cord-style tie necklace is inspired by designs from the 1940s and features a pair of jet pendants accented with diamond-studded rondelles in white gold and finished with garnet cabochons. pomellato.com
pomellato
Representatives of the Taiwan-based designer known for his jewelry worn by Sarah Jessica Parker and Julia Roberts (the latter at the 2019 Academy Awards) showcased Chao’s latest designs in a suite at the Ritz Paris. This Gentlewoman Ribbon Cuff features a pair of cushion mixed-cut fancy intense yellow diamonds totaling 6.85 and 6.03 carats, surrounded by a variety of diamonds and gemstones, including tan, pink and white diamonds, pink sapphires, and purple garnets, all set in 18-karat white, yellow and rose gold. cindychao.com
Cindy Chao
The Bears
At Hotel de Crillon, De Beers presented the latest chapter in its Alchemist of Light high-jewelry collection, this time focusing on a mix of exceptional stones and innovative materials to create a modernist atmosphere. From the “Ascending Shadows” grouping, this necklace is made of dark blue aluminum combined with light blue titanium, and is set with round brilliant white diamonds to create steps that form a wing-like effect; marquise-shaped white diamonds and green rough diamonds line the inner rim, while a 3.41-carat pear-shaped light gray diamond is showcased as the center stone. debeers.com
graffiti
The London-based diamond house, worn by Angelina Jolie and Anna Kendrick on red carpets, likes to impress with special stones, and that was the case with this ring in platinum and 18-carat rose gold, which features a pear-shaped fancy vibrant pink diamond of a total of 8.97 carats and flanked by white diamonds. graff.com
graffiti
Messika Paris
Valerie Messika’s latest jewelry collection, presented in a salon in the Hôtel de Crillon, is inspired by Egypt. The pieces include a wide “Golden Shield” choker in 18 yellow gold that feels both modern and red carpet-friendly. Handcrafted from yellow gold plate to feel like a second skin, the choker features a pear-cut diamond totaling 17.04 carats in the center and is set with round brilliant diamonds. messika.com
Messika Paris
Victory of Castellane said she’s always wanted to “make prints on jewellery,” and Dior’s creative director Joaillerie has realized that idea with Dior Print, a 137-piece jewelery collection that indeed resembles colorful fabrics and ribbons made as jewellery. This ring features a fancy cut pink sapphire in the center, surrounded by round brilliant sapphires and diamonds, all set in 18K rose gold. dior.com
Dior
chaumet
Waves and wonders translates to “Waves and Wonders,” the name of Chaumet’s 2022 collection of water-themed high jewels. Creative director Ehssan Moazen said he was inspired by the idea of how the stars meet the sky in this Comète des Mers necklace, which features brilliant-cut diamonds and pearls in various shades to accent a star embellished with multicolored gemstones, including a 5.91-carat oval-cut Padparadscha sapphire from Madagascar, all set in 18-carat white and rose gold. chaumet.com
chaumet
Set in 18-carat white gold, pear-shaped and round brilliant diamonds are used to create this ear cuff and earring combination from Piaget’s Solstice collection, inspired by the longest winter night of the year. piaget.com
piaget