Discover the best of Dunedin over a long weekend

Children, they say, smile about 400 times a day, while adults smile only 40 (and the less cheerful among us, only 20).

You can test that theory with a visit to Dunedin, once best known for its Scottish heritage, scarves and a certain kind of music. But while we weren’t looking, this amazing southern country was quietly reinventing itself with hip restaurants, world-class street art, and some of the best wallpapers you’ll ever post on social media.

That’s how you put a smile on your watch face with a long weekend in Dunedin.

THURSDAY

6 p.m. It is a half hour drive from the airport to The Chamberson Hotel, boutique accommodation that is a masterclass in combining old and new. This 21-room hotel, carved into the shell of a former listed warehouse, is like staying at a friend’s house with excellent taste.

READ MORE:
† Dunedin: the place where you can travel the world without leaving New Zealand
† Back Your Backyard: 12-Hour Guide to Dunedin
† Why you should get out and explore the little wonders of Dunedin

6.30 pm Drop your bags and go to Mr Fox Lounge & Tapas Bar† It’s a little hidden, but look for the door on 12 The Octagon, go down some stairs and you’ll arrive at this uber-cool bar where the “foxtails” come with clever names and flavors like Honey, I’m Home (with Blueskin Bay honey and tequila) and Bay Roadie (with vodka, Frangelico and Bay Rd peanut butter).

7.30 pm A short walk away is Dunedin’s fable, a four-star boutique hotel located in the former Wains Hotel building. On the ground floor is The Press Club, a 30-seat restaurant named after the local reporters who once worked out of the Wains Hotel library. There is a lot of love for local produce here – from the Wakanui scotch fillet to the Otago wild fallow. You will leave well fed and possibly toddling after the espresso chocolate mousse.

FRIDAY

10:00 a.m. Hopefully the weather gods will play along, because a round on the oldest golf course in the Southern Hemisphere is just what you need to finish your breakfast. The Otago Golf ClubThe 18-hole course offers hilly terrain and fairways to suit every golfer, no matter how big or small your handicap.

13.00 Maori Hill is the place to go for lunch at one of Dunedin’s most iconic eateries, No 7 Balmac† The twice-baked cheese souffle is legendary, or, if you’re looking for something a little more hearty, how about the spiced beef with sourdough pancakes?

2.30 pm Hopefully you have left room for a treat from Pattis & Cream, a scoop shop from the genius behind the famous food truck. Ask for a waffle cone filled with plum and dark chocolate or pear and blue cheese ice cream.

3 p.m. When a city produces iconic clothing brands like NOM*d and Company of Strangers, you’d expect some great shopping. And there is, including boutiques such as Slick Willy’s and Kudos†

If vintage shopping is more your thing, you’ll love it Two Squirrels Vintage, a carefully curated selection of much-loved clothing and artifacts. And you can’t visit Dunners without stopping by Dead Souls Bookstore in Princes St. This shrine to literature contains over 20,000 second-hand books on every subject you’ve ever thought of (and some not).

6 p.m. Dunedin is justifiably proud of its long beer brewing history, so sink in a pint or two Emerson’s Brewing Companywhere beer lovers can see what it’s all about.

8 pm You are now ready for a delicious southern kai, so take a seat Plato on Dunedin’s waterfront, where, unsurprisingly, seafood is the star of the show. Come for the view, but you’ll be just as enamored with the popular fish pie.

SATURDAY

8.00 am The early bird catches the best breakfast at the Otago Farmers Market in the parking lot of the historic Dunedin train station. Admire the Flemish Renaissance-style architecture of the station as you graze.

9:30 am Point the rental car in the direction of Port Chalmers, 9 miles from Dunedin’s CBD. Browse the cool vintage stores and find room in your bag for goodies from Egg & Spoonincluding their gourmet spice offerings from Wild Fennel Co.

11:30 a.m. Today it’s all about the views and as you turn up Blueskin Rd, pause for photos as the north coast unfolds before you. Stop at the Orokonui . Eco Reservea 307 ha biodiversity project that protects multiple species of plants and animals from predators.

16.00 hours Refuel Harvey Street Merchant in Waitati before returning to the city.

6 p.m. Dinner’s over Safe 21 in the Octagon, tucked into a former Victorian bank. The only difficulty is choosing what to eat: paua fritters, sticky beef wontons or wild tataki?

8 pm Look at the sky on a Stargazing in the Southern Sky from Horizon Tours tour and listen to guides weave tales of celestial bodies with waiata while wrapped in blankets.

SUNDAY

10:00 a.m. Enjoy a late breakfast at The Swan in Bath St, where bubbling and squeaking or crumpets with thyme honey will set you up for the day.

11:30 a.m. The Royal Albatross Center is the only breeding colony of northern royal albatross in the world. Prepare to fall in love with these majestic birds.

1.30 pm Central CastleBuilt in 1871 as New Zealand’s first castle, it offers a fascinating look at what life was like back then. After viewing the antique-filled rooms and manicured gardens, settle in for high tea.

16.00 hours Go to the airport with a big smile on your face. Don’t be surprised if you are already planning your next visit.

This story was updated on July 13, 2022 to reflect the opening of Fable Dunedin and the closing of The Friday Shop.