On Friday night, speaking about what stood out to her in this year’s cohort of iD Dunedin International Emerging Designers, Judge Tanya Carlson said she was impressed that for the next generation of fashion, sustainability considerations were a non-starter.
When you walk the streets of Ōtepoti and talk to people about where they get their clothes from, it is clear that this is second nature to the inhabitants of the south as well. Almost all respondents said yes wearing something second hand or vintage. Since this was the Deep South, there was also a lot of knitwear and a penchant for grunge.
Check out the outfits and read their thoughts on what defines southern stylebelow.
READ MORE:
* Tara Viggo on the endearing uniqueness of Southern style
* Unwavering sustainability and positivity are key to winning collections at the iD Dunedin Fashion Show
* How NZ dresses: superfans lining up for Harry Styles
* Bos en Vogel celebrate 100 years with music at Wānaka’s Festival of Color
* How NZ Dress: Street Style at Lorde in Wellington
Kennedy Lahood
How did you choose what to wear today?
My classiest bougie expensive pants, then I just tried to match them with everything I had. Something colorful and leather.
What brings you here today?
I help to make sure everything runs smoothly and to dress the models.
Can you describe Dunedin’s style?
Grungy, dark and tough.
What was the last item of clothing you bought for yourself?
It’s been a while, let me think… It was a pair of shoes. A pair of platform loafers from online, Asos.
Tatiana Haupt
Tell me about your collection.
My collection is about women’s work and how it has evolved, or not evolved. In my master’s thesis I wondered how feminism can be expressed through craftsmanship and why we should talk more about women’s rights.
You do a lot of knitting, which New Zealanders love. What is the profession?
It’s a passion I’ve always had. I’ve always wanted to know how knitwear works, both on a global scale and in a domestic environment. My grandmother knew how to do all that, but I was always a little disconnected.
Later I found out that someone in my family used to own a knitting factory. I feel like it runs in my family and it’s good to re-appropriate this craftsmanship.
How do you like Dunedin?
Well, when I arrived it was very rainy. I was like ‘woah’ because I bought my bikini and I thought I could go for a swim, which is so ridiculous.
The good thing is that I bought some socks from a local store, and some gloves. But overall Dunedin is really cute.
Robin Belton
Can you describe Dunedin’s style in three words?
Oh my god I… Original and innovative. I like it.
We have so many students and I love that about Dunedin. The vibrancy of beautiful childhood is something that fills the city with a sense of fun and spirit.
Who is your favorite New Zealand designer?
I really enjoy Tanya Carlson’s designs. Her shape is feminine, but her garments often refer to something from the past that appeals to me.
Can you tell me about one of your favorite pieces of clothing?
It’s Tanya’s again. It is a very shaped little coat. It’s denim that’s quite contemporary, but the shape she used with a peplum is very reminiscent of an 1890s riding coat. The kind of thing people wore in Edwardian times. I find it very flattering and fun.
Emma Walker
Can you describe your style in three words?
I think diverse. What else? What do you think mom?
Mom (off camera): I think I’m pretty sophisticated and chic!
Can you tell me about one of your favorite pieces of clothing?
One of my favorite pieces is actually this sweater. Bought it second hand at a thrift sale these girls were doing at my school to raise money so I think it was a pretty good find.
Do you remember how much you paid for it?
Only five dollars. I was thinking of getting something else instead, but I’m glad I got this.
How old are you, may I ask?
I’m 12.
What do you want to do with your life?
I’m not sure. I really enjoy writing stories so it would be cool to become an author. But even if I didn’t, I probably would just do it for fun.
Natalie Fleming
Can you tell me about the outfit you’re wearing today?
It is mostly secondhand. This [jacket] comes from a consignment shop in Taupo. These are fleece lined flared pants and this bag actually got me from my brother. It was created by women in Kolkata rescued from prostitution.
What do you think sets the Dunedin style apart?
I think people are very good at shopping up. They know how to lay. I feel like everyone here has their own style.
How would you describe your style?
Easy, fast and cheap.
Ethan Pethick
Can you describe your style?
Baggy. Duration. Black. I’m very clear.
What is the most expensive item in your wardrobe?
Probably my shoes, $500.
How would you describe Southland style?
Horrible.
Jenny McConnel
Tell us about your outfit?
It was all bought in Dunedin. I like color. I’m probably a little dark today. I think as long as you’re wearing something and you feel good in it, you just have to keep smiling.
What are your favorite shops in Dunedin?
Bellbirds, Chapman. Every one of them really, I shop in all of them.
Tell me about your necklace.
It’s more or less passed down in the family. It’s from a rowing competition in Cambridge and the boat that won all got a medal. It’s great-great-grandfather’s stuff.
Is there something in your wardrobe that you hope is a future heirloom?
Oh yeah. I keep my clothes. I buy good clothes and I keep them and I love them.
Zheyi Ruan
Can you describe your style for me?
I actually wear a lot of black things, but most of the things I make are super colorful. I am one of the finalists for the iD emerging fashion show.
Have you noticed a difference in the way people dress here?
Um not so much. I lived here about 10 years ago and it’s pretty much the same.
What is your favorite established New Zealand designer?
I actually absolutely love NOM*d. i have loved [designer] Margarita since high school. I just like the aesthetic, and it seems like it’s really cool and young.
Poppy Ophelia
Can you tell me about your outfit?
Poppy: Um…
Friend off camera: I can. It’s from yesterday, she hasn’t slept yet.
Poppy: (laughs) It’s yesterday’s outfit.
Can you describe your general style in three words?
Ragamuffin, brown and a touch of Huia.
How do you think people dress in Dunedin?
Gothic. Coats. Big coats.
What is the oldest in your wardrobe?
A fur coat from the 1970s. Got it in an op shop.
cory wood
Talk to me about your outfit.
I have this [shirt] from the thrift store, six dollars. Everything else is overpaid. Get the beaters on. Just here for a good time, you know.
What is your job?
I build boats.
What is the oldest in your wardrobe?
To be fair, probably the hat I’m wearing. I got it about four years ago, abroad in Canada.
Piper Ward
Can you tell me about your outfit?
It’s all on-shop, except the tights. I’m from Oamaru, so it all comes from op-shops in Oamaru. I shop all the time and I like to wear my own thing.
Do you have a favorite New Zealand designer?
Probably Kate Sylvester. I like that she is very feminine, and I like her choice of color.
What is the oldest in your wardrobe?
I have a Fabulously Rex handbag that is probably about 50 years old.
Do you still use it?
I used to use it all the time, but it’s a bit clunky now. I am now totally obsessed with school bags. This is one that you have to hold on to for a bit. I’ve used it for years and years, but it’s now in my closet.