Figs tend to fool gardeners – they can get way too potent and also seem to produce a lot of fruit that never ends up in our mouths. Right prune can help immensely – but first it’s vital to understand that not all the fruit on a fig tree in this country will ripen out there. Figs grown in a greenhouse can have a longer fruiting period, thanks to the extended growing season that a glasshouse environment can provide.
The figs that we can eat eventually form on the plant in August and September of the previous year – so it is important to take this into account during spring pruning. The small figs, also called embryonic figs, which eventually ripen to eat in the summer, sit on the plant during the winter and are no bigger than your thumbnail. Larger fruit that is hard and unripe generally falls off in the winter, so either ignore it or just pick it away.
When it comes to pruning, in the spring, say late March, remove dead wood and sparse congested areas. Remove the stems that grow away from the wall or make the shrub look unbalanced when growing in a pot or border, as well as a percentage of the oldest growth to encourage fresh shoots and rejuvenate the plant. Remove tips from some of the younger shoots to encourage branching; this prevents all the fruit from getting to the top of the plant.
Figs are best grown on a south-facing wall with limited roots to encourage fruit (planting in a three-sided “box” with vertical pavers in the ground will do the job). Fruiting is also aided by tying the shoots more horizontally to create an open-center fan shape. Whether growing a fig as a shrub or fan, continue to remove the suckers from the base of the plant; these will take over and become dominant if allowed to develop.
When it comes to very overgrown figs that haven’t seen pruning shears in years, remove one-third of the plant each year to gradually rejuvenate the tree to avoid shock; you want to avoid ending up with an overwhelming amount of whip-like new growth. ‘Brown Turkey’ is a great one to start with.