Q&A: Why does my rosemary keep dying?

Q&A: Why does my rosemary keep dying?

This is the third time I’ve tried growing rosemary, but it keeps turning brown and dying even though I feed and water well. I grow it in a container. Augustine Dunleavy, Central Otago

I think it’s dying because you water well and feed your rosemary well, Augustine. NZ gardener recommends growing rosemary in well-drained, slightly calcareous soil in a sheltered, sunny spot. It is hardy but does not thrive in cold, soggy soil. Do not over water or feed.

Below are rosemary growing tips from NZ Gardener magazine.

Sow and grow

  • Transplantation: September to March in warm areas; October to February in cool areas
  • Position: Full sun
  • Harvest: 10-12 weeks
  • Good for pots
  • Good for beginners

Get started

Rosemary is difficult and slow to propagate from seed, so is best grown from layering, cuttings or seedlings. Seedlings can be planted from spring to late summer, as can softwood cuttings taken from new growth in spring.

Take semi-hardwood cuttings in summer or create new plants by layering and plant them out in late fall (not in colder areas – keep in pots until spring).

Step-by-step

  • To start with cuttings: choose a 15-30cm flexible shoot for the new season. Avoid stems that have finished flowering or have buds. Make an angled cut just above a leaf bud, remove the lower leaves. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone if you have it before potting it into a moist mix. Pot up in individual containers when the cuttings produce roots, or plant directly in your garden.
  • To start with layering, choose a low-lying stem that touches the ground. Creeping rosemary is best for this method. Scrape off a piece of bark from the stem close to the ground. Anchor the stem in the soil or over the top of a container of potting mix. Cut the stem away from the parent when the new plant is about 4 inches (10 cm) tall (the roots are well established).

Tips for growing

rosemary.

123RF/Sun

rosemary.

Rosemary does best in well-drained, slightly calcareous soil in a sheltered, sunny spot. It is hardy but does not thrive in cold, soggy soil. Do not over water or feed.

In very cold areas, grow it in containers so you can move your plant indoors during the winter. Upright rosemary is better as a culinary herb than the trailing form, but the latter remains much more compact and thus better suited to container culture. Plant in a large pot with good drainage. Prune leggy plants in the spring.

Striking varieties

‘Chef’s Choice’ a long flowering, compact but slightly trailing variety. ‘Tuscan Blue’, an upright violet-flowered form, is excellent for cutting.

Fix the problem

The most likely pests for rosemary are aphids, spider mites, scale insects and mealybugs. By improving the airflow around your plants, you can control them all.

In soil that does not drain well, root rot can become a problem. Drainage is key to success, so grow in pots in waterlogged areas.

Q&A: Why does my rosemary keep dying?

Q&A: Why does my rosemary keep dying?

This is the third time I’ve tried growing rosemary, but it keeps turning brown and dying even though I feed and water well. I grow it in a container. Augustine Dunleavy, Central Otago

I think it’s dying because you water well and feed your rosemary well, Augustine. NZ gardener recommends growing rosemary in well-drained, slightly calcareous soil in a sheltered, sunny spot. It is hardy but does not thrive in cold, soggy soil. Do not over water or feed.

Below are rosemary growing tips from NZ Gardener magazine.

Sow and grow

  • Transplantation: September to March in warm areas; October to February in cool areas
  • Position: Full sun
  • Harvest: 10-12 weeks
  • Good for pots
  • Good for beginners

Get started

Rosemary is difficult and slow to propagate from seed, so is best grown from layering, cuttings or seedlings. Seedlings can be planted from spring to late summer, as can softwood cuttings taken from new growth in spring.

Take semi-hardwood cuttings in summer or create new plants by layering and plant them out in late fall (not in colder areas – keep in pots until spring).

Step-by-step

  • To start with cuttings: choose a 15-30cm flexible shoot for the new season. Avoid stems that have finished flowering or have buds. Make an angled cut just above a leaf bud, remove the lower leaves. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone if you have it before potting it into a moist mix. Pot up in individual containers when the cuttings produce roots, or plant directly in your garden.
  • To start with layering, choose a low-lying stem that touches the ground. Creeping rosemary is best for this method. Scrape off a piece of bark from the stem close to the ground. Anchor the stem in the soil or over the top of a container of potting mix. Cut the stem away from the parent when the new plant is about 4 inches (10 cm) tall (the roots are well established).

Tips for growing

rosemary.

123RF/Sun

rosemary.

Rosemary does best in well-drained, slightly calcareous soil in a sheltered, sunny spot. It is hardy but does not thrive in cold, soggy soil. Do not over water or feed.

In very cold areas, grow it in containers so you can move your plant indoors during the winter. Upright rosemary is better as a culinary herb than the trailing form, but the latter remains much more compact and thus better suited to container culture. Plant in a large pot with good drainage. Prune leggy plants in the spring.

Striking varieties

‘Chef’s Choice’ a long flowering, compact but slightly trailing variety. ‘Tuscan Blue’, an upright violet-flowered form, is excellent for cutting.

Fix the problem

The most likely pests for rosemary are aphids, spider mites, scale insects and mealybugs. By improving the airflow around your plants, you can control them all.

In soil that does not drain well, root rot can become a problem. Drainage is key to success, so grow in pots in waterlogged areas.