Every skincare fan these days knows that the secret to youthful skin lies in retinol – a super-effective skin rejuvenator – to speed up the production of new skin cells and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
But there’s a new hero product, retina, and it claims to work 11 times faster.
The ingredients may be only one letter apart, but there are big differences for your skin. So, should you trade your retinol for its turbocharged half-sister?
Retinal (short for retinaldehyde) is “one of the most powerful ingredients in skin care and gives amazing results,” says Daniel Isaacs of skin care brand Medik8.
Still, there are only a few retina products so far, because here’s the bad news: it’s expensive and difficult to stabilize for use in cosmetics.
The ingredients may be only one letter apart, but there are big differences for your skin. So, should you trade your retinol for its turbocharged half-sister? (stock image)
Retinol and retina accelerate the rate at which our skin regenerates and sheds old skin cells, which slows down as we age. But this super-fast exfoliation means they can make your skin more sensitive and should be introduced slowly.
Retinoids can tackle a range of skin problems in middle age, explains facialist Fiona Brackenbury: “They help strengthen the skin barrier, reduce water loss, protect existing collagen fibers and brighten the complexion.”
Where retina scores more than retinol, however, is not only in its warp speed, but also in its spot-killing powers. ‘The big advantage of the retina is its antibacterial properties,’ says Fiona. “Less bad bacteria means less chance of pimples.”
Does the claim ’11 times faster’ mean you’ll get the same results from retinal in one month as from retinol in 11?
In the lab, where this was tested on human skin cells in petri dishes, yes — but in real life, where there are many variables, such as individual skin physiology, not necessarily. So far there have been no real face comparisons.
Both retinol and retinal need to be converted to retinoic acid by our skin to be effective – but retinol takes longer because it has to undergo two conversions, first to retina and then to retinoic acid.
Fiona says, ‘The health of our skin, our age and our lifestyle, including stress from pollution and the sun, all affect the skin’s ability to convert the ingredient into a form the skin can use.’
It’s a bit like the Couch To 5k running program, she says, because “everyone takes a different amount of time to reach their goals.”
An advantage of retina is that better results can be obtained with a lower concentration of the product.
An advantage of retina is that better results can be obtained with a lower concentration of the product (stock image)
Cosmetic chemist Pippa Harman, founder of skincare consulting service renude.co, explains, “The strengths needed are typically ten times lower than for retinol,” she says.
Daniel Isaacs recommends 0.03 percent as a starting point, compared to about 0.1 percent for retinol.
In addition, because the retina is less stable, it must be ‘encapsulated’ or wrapped in a protective backing. This means it won’t irritate sensitive skin as much as retinol.
“This lowers the sensitivity potential because it releases more gradually,” says Pippa.
As with all retinoids, you should avoid the retina if you are pregnant, use it in the evening (it can go off during the day), and wear sunscreen to protect fresh, new skin.
So which one should you choose? We tested six.
AN ANTI-AGER FOR EVERYONE
Allies of Skin Retinal + Peptides Repair Night Cream 50ml, £105, lookfantastic.com
What is it? An all-in-one, anti-aging night cream with 0.02 percent retinal encapsulation – a power that’s a good fit for most people – and high levels of antioxidants for damage repair, plus firmness-enhancing peptides, emollient oils and moisturizing hyaluronic acid.
How is it going? I’ve been using this on a regular basis and it has everything you need to make skin age-resistant – and leaves it soft in the morning. It’s expensive, but you get a bigger tube than the rest.
verdict: A one-time night cream that does all the thinking for you. 4/5
THE SURPRISINGLY AFFORDABLE
AHC Youth Focus Pro Retinal 11x Essence 30ml, £28.99, superdrug.com
AHC Youth Focus Pro Retinal 11x Essence 30ml, £28.99, superdrug.com
StriVectin Advanced Retinol Nightly Renewal Moisturizer, 30ml, £69, feelunique.com
Medik8 Crystal Retinal, 30ml, £42-£83 depending on strength, medik8.com
What is it? AHC is the top-selling aesthetic skincare brand in Korea, where glowing skin is an obsession. This 0.02 percent encapsulated retinal serum is a powerhouse in their Pro Retinal 11x retina range.
How is it going? A light, milky serum that is fragrance-free and an accessible power for beginners. Although it looks expensive, it is surprisingly affordable and the only one with a range of compatible products.
verdict: Affordable, effective. 5/5
NO IRRITATION NIGHT CREAM
StriVectin Advanced Retinol Nightly Renewal Moisturizer, 30ml, £69, feelunique.com
What is it? Strivectin has worked hard to make this night cream as non-irritating but as powerful as possible with a double dose of retinoid (retina and retinol – both encapsulated, but they don’t say which strength), soothing peptides and a niacinamide-like ingredient, NIA 114TM to improve retinol efficiency and minimize sensitivity. Studies have shown that it reduced forehead lines and pores after four weeks.
How is it going? This is for regular retinol users, but you’ll have to experiment to find your sweet spot. For me, it was once or twice a week to avoid that dry, tight skin feeling that can occur because retinoids also reduce oil production.
verdict: For retinol ‘enhancers’. 3/5
CRYSTAL CLEAR FOR BEGINNERS
Medik8 Crystal Retinal, 30ml, £42-£83 depending on strength, medik8.com
What is it? Medik8’s ladder system of four crystal-encapsulated retinal strengths (numbered 1, 3, 6 and 10) allows anyone to find their starting point and progress without sensitivity. Most start at Crystal Retinal 3, £47 (0.03 percent retina), there’s 0.01 percent (for sensitive skins) and 0.1 percent for experienced users.
How is it going? I dove into Crystal Retinal 6 twice a week (0.06 percent, £62) to ‘train’ my skin to tolerate it. Medik8’s system is easy to follow, so you’re less likely to waste your money.
verdict: Infallible, buildable. 5/5
SAVE MONEY ON REFILLS
Trinny London Retinal+ Overnight Sensation, 30ml, £69, or refills £55, trinnylondon.com
What is it? A 0.25 percent retinoid combination of non-irritating Granactive retinoid and retina with a fermented ingredient to combat sagging. The serum is aimed at 40+ skins.
How is it going? The vibrant yellow serum is a sign of high retinal concentration, but how much is not specified. Wait a few minutes for it to settle to avoid staining the cushion. I built up for nighttime use for a month with no sensitivity. Refills cost £14 less.
verdict: Environmentally friendly thanks to the refills and powerful. 4/5
SUPER STRONG FOR SUPER RESULTS
Youth To The People Retinal And Niacinamide Youth Serum, 30ml, £59, cultbeauty.co.uk
Youth To The People Retinal And Niacinamide Youth Serum, 30ml, £59, cultbeauty.co.uk
What is it? This ethical California brand offers the highest over-the-counter retinal strength of 0.15 percent. It combines stabilized retina with ceramides (the glue that holds our skin cells together, which decline as we age) and turbo-charging and calming 5 percent niacinamide and de-stressing adaptogens.
How is it going? This is a deep yellow color and comes in a dark glass jar to prevent oxidation. At such a high strength you have to start very slowly, once a week, and build up gradually.
verdict: Go gently for great results. 3/5