I always thought it was just my bathroom cabinet out of control. Recently, however, a friend, desperate over her ever expanding beauty routineshowed me her bathroom shelves and she has almost as much stock as Space NK.
The trend to hyaluronic acid, copper peptides, niacinamideVitamin C, plus peels and masks, means we’re bombarding our faces and our skin suffering. But how do you reset when there are thousands of products that promise surprising results?
Enter GetHarley, an online consultation service that matches clients with suitable skin experts. Whether your problem is acne, eczema, dark circles or you just want a beauty routine with no BS, GetHarley will find your match. Mine was Dr. Fiona McCarthy, an oncologist who made the transition to aesthetics in 2015 after experiencing skin pigmentation during her pregnancies. She also has, according to her biog, “a holistic and preventive approach to aging.” Excellent.
I could ask her where she stands with the clean versus science argument and whether the two are mutually exclusive. “It’s actually very simple,” says Dr. McCarthy encouragingly. There are three main scientifically proven ingredients that keep the skin young: vitamin A (or retinol as it is commonly known), SPF and antioxidants, or which vitamin C is best.
She doesn’t use toner, praises cheap moisturizers (save your money for products with active ingredients), explodes the idea that we should stick to one brand for everything (“no brand excels at every product”), and recommends creamy cleansers as we age . “Most cleansers work, so the key is choosing the right formulation for your skin type.”
Cream-based cleansers are better for sensitive or rosacea-prone skin – try Avène Extremely gentle cleanseror CeraVe Moisturizing Cleanser – while foamers are better for oily skin. She considers many eye creams a waste of time, as most do not contain ingredients that make a long-term difference to skin quality, although they Medik8 r-Retinoate Eye Serum.
“It has a very strong new form of retinol, which is formulated in a way that doesn’t dry out the skin, but still gives results.” Although she suggests using it twice a week initially, rather than the daily application recommended on the product.
dr. McCarthy has spent years treating melanomas and believes that using a daily SPF, separate from your moisturizer, is the best thing you can do for your skin. ‘If you don’t like the idea of chemicals entering your skin, go for a mineral, which forms a physical barrier. It must contain UVA and UVB. If you’re concerned about blue light, the combination of SPF with vitamin C ensures that you are fully protected.’
She recommends Heliocare oil-free gel, leaving the skin hydrated and dewy. She loves vitamin C because it not only brightens the skin, but also stimulates collagen production. But don’t use it more than once a day. Skinbetter Science Alto Defense Serum, which contains vitamins C, E, and 19 and other antioxidants, is the one — it’s a cream rather than a serum, and especially popular for mature skin. It’s expensive, but she says it’s worth it. As for hyaluronic acid, her choice is: Vichy Mineral 89, which can replace thicker moisturizers when the warmer weather returns. “It’s lightweight yet intensely hydrating.”