The first thing I notice about Singapore is a lush, greenhouse-worthy display of beautiful greenery… in the middle of the baggage carousel. I haven’t even collected my luggage when I first become aware of the city-state’s extraordinary commitment to the ecological cause.
And it’s the gift that keeps on giving, because when I check into my hotel, the Parkroyal Marina Bay Sands, there are rows of greenery all around, a 13-foot living wall—which helps purify the surrounding air—and an urban garden on the fourth floor. floor produces more than 60 fruits, vegetables and herbs (legislation requires any new or renovated building to commit to similar green practices).
A 21-story atrium topped with a skylight lowers the hotel’s temperature, reducing electricity consumption, while solar panels on the roof provide off-grid power.
These are remarkable impressions of a place that, while smaller than all of New York City, has steadily built a reputation as one of the most environmentally friendly places in the world. Just this month, it was officially certified as a sustainable destination based on criteria set by the Global Sustainable Tourism Council.
In the 1960s, Singapore became known as the Garden City thanks to Lee Kuan Yew, the then Prime Minister, who proposed the creation and evolution of a greener environment to mitigate the effects of the concrete urban jungle. Today you have more chance to see real jungle – Bukit Timah Nature Reserve. At 163 meters, it is the highest point on the island and one of only two areas of urban rainforest in the world (the other being in Rio). In recent decades, more space and planning has been devoted to expanding existing parks or creating new parks.
I’m going to the Southern Ridges Park, with the highest pedestrian bridge in Singapore: the Henderson Waves. At 36 meters high, it offers a great view over the Strait of Singapore, while inland a sea of green can be seen, where the occasional tower block juts out. It also leads to a trail that eventually reaches neighboring Mount Faber.
“Most of our parks are connected,” says my guide, Naseem. ‘The Park Connector Network connects green areas, so walking or cycling in nature is very easy and yet in the middle of the city. It’s also meant to discourage people from using their cars that much.”
As we walk, I notice locals scanning their phones via QR codes on signposts at regular intervals.
“That’s a great incentive to keep fit,” says Naseem. “It tracks your daily steps, which you can convert into points worth rewards like supermarket coupons.”
I’d also increase my step count if it helped with my weekly shopping – although I’m tempted to go for a crazier option – a city tour in a vintage Vespa sidecar.
With Naseem I arrive in Singapore beautiful Botanical Gardens. Founded in 1859, it is the only tropical garden recognized by Unesco. The showpiece is the National Orchid Garden, which features more than 1,000 species. Some are named after prominent visitors such as Queen Elizabeth and the Obamas.
Another, more unusual, green space then beckons – Gardens in the Bay is three 250-acre waterfront gardens. The largest is Bay South, notable for the Flower Dome – the world’s largest glass greenhouse. It features flowers and plants from climate zones all over the planet and I merrily wander from clusters of cacti to giant baobab trees, through rose bushes and expanses of beautiful meadow flowers.
Next door is the Cloud Forest, which has one of the world’s tallest indoor waterfalls and is several stories high. Walkways allow you to observe the exotic plant species in it.
However, one of my favorite parts of this green city isn’t even natural. Towering into the sky, The Gardens’ man-made Supertrees, 18 strange sculptures ranging between 25 and 50 metres, each with a stout ‘trunk’ that fan out in a network of ‘branches’.
Budget beds
For a great deal, the Hotel 81 chain has branches all over Singapore, offering cleanliness, comfort and value for money. Stay in a centrally located Bugis surrounded by shopping malls, restaurants and nightlife; hotel81.com.sg.
We found deals on a pristine double room for S$134 per night for two – that’s just £41 each. The starting price is for a room without a window, but hey, there’s bed linen, wifi, a TV and a kettle. Grab a room with a view starting at $159.
The 22-meter high Skyway connects 12 of them and it’s a fascinating experience to see them up close and look down on the real greenery spreading below.
Of course, despite their artificiality, they do contribute to Singapore’s eco-credentials.
Several harvest solar energy to power the lights that illuminate them after dark, while others contain devices for water storage and air cooling. Definitely one of the coolest things about Singapore.
The option of taking one flight and then staying on a workation for a month would appeal to anyone who wants to fly as little as possible.
And when I watch the music and light show that takes place in the trees every night, it’s clear that Singapore is really giving the green light to go.
Return fares from London Heathrow to Singapore from £578, finnair.com. Rooms at Parkroyal Marina Bay Sands from £258pn, panpacific. com.
For more info, see visitapore.com
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